Tuesday, October 10, 2017

Polymer Clay Journey- MORE Faux Stained Glass And Window Clingies!!

Thanks for stopping by.

Update regarding The corresponding video Or this tutorial:
For some bizarre reason, I have tried to load the video  for this faux Stained glass tutorial Three different times And I keep getting a community guidelines strike against them. That means the video Is not available to watch.  I am leaving the article here as it is, And of course I am appealing the strikes against my YouTube channel. Once everything is corrected, I will re-upload the video And try again. No doubt it is very frustrating When you know you did not violate any guidelines. 
Yay! I finally finished another faux stained glass tutorial! I love doing them is so much, that I can just stop at one or two videos.  (Click here to see the first one)
So there'll be a few more to come.  If you want to know more keep reading first :0)
Making Faux Stain glass Window Cling

What you will need...
First of all, you need to create these on a shiny ceramic tile or a piece of glass. Make sure there are no bumps or dents or textures in the ceramic tile. When the liquid clay cures, the part that is in contact with the tile becomes super shiny and smooth- able to cling to your window or mirror.

💗1. a shiny ceramic tile or piece of glass
💗2. translucent liquid polymer clay (see more in the video)
💗3. alcohol ink
💗4. polymer clay tools such as: a craft knife, a toothpick or needle tool
💗5. baby wipes
💗6. an oven
💗7. solid polymer clay (I used Premo in silver and black - mixed together)
💗8. your imagination

I'm just going to tell you how I created my window clings and you can take it from there, to do it however you wish.
Step number one.
Mixing your clay for the leading part:
I mixed black clay with some silver clay, until it looks about the color of stained glass window leading. You don't have to make that colour, it is up to you. I used black and silver Premo.
Step number two.
What do you want it to look like?
To avoid wasting time if you're concerned about that,  draw on paper what you would like to create. Remember, because it is faux or imitation stained-glass, the goal is to create images that resemble how stained glass looks, that means keeping your images somewhat simple or abstract-ish. I broke up my flower into simple shapes that I could fill with liquid clay.
Step number three.
Drawing with the clay:
Roll out your faux leading, into long thin "logs." Depending on the size of the piece you are making, try keeping it in proportion to that. For instance, if I was making a flower 3 inches in diameter, my leading would be about a quarter inch round, or even a little less. To me it just wouldn't look right if I made it a half-inch thick. It's fun to experiment with different thicknesses. But, the heavy lines will take away from the transparent coloured glow of the "faux" glass.

QUICK TIPS: is to make sure that it is thick enough to hold in the liquid clay. The shallower the strips of clay, the less liquid clay you can use and therefore, it may be so fragile it could rip easily.

Never being one to prepare much, I just start laying down the black lines to create the image that's in
my head. That definitely means rearranging pieces  accordingly.  You can do the same thing, it's just more efficient if you draw it out first. Being a visual artist, I am definitely into  figuring it out as I go. Again, your preference.  That's probably why my high school English marks were so low- proofreading and rough drafts, never been my forte.

Yeah make sure when you're putting the lines down, that you're pressing them onto the tile and glass enough to stick it down. You're essentially creating a seal that will hold the liquid clay you're about to pour it.

Step number four: 
Flooding the shapes-  Think "flooding" a skating rink? I used a couple of kinds of Clay,  Kato and Sculpey. I have tried mixing the two brands together at times. I don't really know what happened, because I didn't keep track of which pieces had which kinds of clays or mixes. Perhaps that was when the "mooning" happened on one of my pieces. It's always fun to experiment and try things anyway, how else can we learn?

Now you just start to add the liquid clay into each shaped, within the black lines. The Sculpey Clay is handy because it already has a pointy tip. Pointy tips, like a restaurant ketchup containers, make squirting liquid in a controlled fashion, much easier. You can transfer the liquid clay into a squeeze bottle, just make sure it is a compatible type of plastic. Or you can pour it onto a Glass dish or something like  that,  and use a toothpick or popsicle stick to scoop it up and drip it into your shapes. In fact, I believe most liquid clays are self levelling. So cover the surface with a thin layer and wait a few minutes to let it shift and level.

Push it around to fill in any exposed surfaces on the tile. Be careful not to overfill it, if you do, remove it with a popsicle stick or a toothpick.

Step number five:  Creating the stained Glass Effect
Remember you're creating a coloured stained "glass," that light can shine through so you need to use a colouring method, that is transparent. So the best colouring method that I know of is alcohol Ink. I used the Adirondack ink. A teeny bit goes a long way. More about colouring is covered in the video.

Step number six: Curing your "stained glass"- Preheat your oven at 275 Fahrenheit (if you are using Premo like I did) Place your tile on our designated baking pan and bake for at least.

Liquid Polymer clays, according to label directions cure at a higher temperature. I have never tried that. If the only ingredient was that kind of clay, then I would use the higher temp. But because I used solid clay- I bake at that temperature.

Best Quick Tip From This Project: do not use mica powders or chalk pastels powders, are any kind of paint. I made the mistake of using Mica powder and ruined one of my flowers  because the light can NOT shine through Mica powder. Made for a sparkly flower though!

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